The counterfeit watch market is worth billions. High-end watches—especially Steinhart dive watches—are prime targets for forgery. If you're buying a luxury watch, whether new or pre-owned, knowing how to spot a fake is essential. Let's walk you through the tells.
Why Counterfeit Watches Are Everywhere
A genuine Steinhart dive watch costs between R8,000 and R25,000. A convincing counterfeit costs a tenth of that to manufacture and sells for half the real price. The profit margin is irresistible to forgers. The stakes are high, which means counterfeits are getting better.
The good news: a real luxury watch has hundreds of small details that are nearly impossible to replicate perfectly. Learn what to look for, and you'll spot a fake.
The Serial Number: Your First Line of Defence
Every legitimate Steinhart watch has a unique serial number. This is your primary authentication tool.
Where to Find It
The serial number is engraved on the case back (the solid metal panel on the rear of the watch). On Steinhart watches, it's typically laser-engraved or stamped in a specific location and font.
What to Check
Legibility: The engraving should be crisp, clean, and centred. Counterfeits often have blurry, off-centre, or poorly spaced serial numbers. Look under magnification—a loupe or macro lens on your phone will reveal the quality.
Depth: A genuine laser-engraved serial number has consistent depth and a clean edge. Counterfeits often have shallow or uneven engraving.
Format: Know what a Steinhart serial number looks like. Visit the official Steinhart website or ask your authorized dealer. The format, font, and size should match exactly.
Can You Verify It?
Steinhart doesn't publish a public serial number verification database (for security reasons). However, authorized dealers like Pura can verify a serial number against purchase records. If you're buying a pre-owned Steinhart, ask the seller for proof of authenticity or bring it to us for verification.
The Movement: The Watch's Heart
The movement—the mechanical or automatic mechanism inside—is where counterfeits often fail.
Automatic Movement Inspection
Steinhart's popular models use high-quality Swiss or Japanese automatic movements. A genuine movement will have:
- Smooth operation: Wind the watch by hand (the crown), and you should feel smooth, even resistance. Counterfeits often feel gritty or uneven.
- Beat rate: A genuine automatic movement beats at a consistent rate (typically 28,800 bph—beats per hour—on Steinhart watches). Hold the watch to your ear and listen to the ticking. It should be a steady, rapid "tick-tick-tick-tick." A counterfeit's beat rate is often noticeably slower or irregular.
- Rotor movement: Look through the display case back. If the watch has an automatic movement, you'll see the rotor (a weighted wheel) spinning as you move the watch. On a genuine watch, it spins smoothly and freely. On a counterfeit, it may stick, stutter, or move inconsistently.
- Finishing: Swiss movements have visible finishing—bevelled edges, polished surfaces, decorative details. Counterfeits often have crude, unfinished movements visible through the case back.
Quartz Movement (If Applicable)
Some Steinhart models use quartz movements. Authentic quartz movements:
- Keep excellent time (within ±15 seconds per month).
- Have a battery hatch on the case back that's precisely machined.
- Display no damage, leakage, or discolouration inside the case.
Counterfeits often use cheap quartz movements that lose time dramatically or have visible corrosion.
Weight and Balance
A genuine luxury watch is surprisingly heavy. It feels substantial in your hand—solid metal, quality glass, precision engineering all add up.
What to Check
Overall weight: Know the specified weight of the model you're buying. A genuine Steinhart dive watch typically weighs between 150–200 grams depending on the model. A counterfeit, using cheaper materials, is often noticeably lighter.
Balance: Hold the watch level in your palm. A genuine watch should feel evenly balanced. A counterfeit, with uneven construction, may feel lopsided or unstable.
Bracelet/strap weight: If it comes with a metal bracelet, each link should feel solid and precisely machined. Counterfeit bracelets are often hollow or loosely assembled.
The Bezel: A Window into Quality
The bezel—the rotating ring around the dial—is a critical component on dive watches. It's also one of the easiest ways to spot a fake.
Genuine Bezel Characteristics
- Smooth rotation: Turns with consistent, deliberate clicks (usually 120 clicks per full rotation on Steinhart models). No slipping, grinding, or resistance variation.
- Alignment: The 12 o'clock marker should align perfectly with the 12 o'clock position on the dial when turned to 0.
- Material: On Steinhart dive watches, the bezel is typically ceramic or quality anodized aluminum. The surface is smooth, uniform in colour, and free of imperfections.
- Printing: The numbers and markers should be crisp, evenly spaced, and aligned.
Counterfeit Bezel Red Flags
- Sticky or grinding rotation: Indicates poor manufacturing or misalignment.
- Misalignment: If the 12 o'clock marker doesn't align after a full rotation, the bezel assembly is faulty.
- Uneven colour or rough texture: Suggests cheap anodizing or low-grade materials.
- Blurry or unevenly printed markers: Another sign of counterfeit manufacturing.
The Dial and Case
The dial and case finishing are where Steinhart's attention to detail really shows. Counterfeits cut corners here.
Dial Inspection
Printing quality: The hour markers, logo, and text should be perfectly crisp, evenly spaced, and aligned. Look closely under magnification. Blurry, off-centre, or uneven printing is a major red flag.
Luminosity: Genuine lume (luminous material) on Steinhart watches is high-quality and glows brightly in the dark. Counterfeit lume is often dull or doesn't glow at all.
Finish: The dial surface should be evenly finished—whether it's matte, brushed, or sunburst. Counterfeits often have inconsistent or cheap-looking finishes.
Depth: A genuine dial has proper depth and three-dimensionality. The markers appear to sit at a specific level, not flush against the surface.
Case Inspection
Brushing and polishing: Genuine Steinhart cases have precise, uniform brushing or polishing. Counterfeits often have uneven or rough finishing.
Edge sharpness: Case edges should be cleanly finished, not sharp or rough. Run your finger gently along the case edge—a genuine watch feels refined; a counterfeit often feels raw.
Lugs: The lugs (where the strap attaches) should be precisely machined and aligned. Counterfeits often have visible misalignment or rough edges.
The Crown and Pushers
The crown (the knob you use to wind and set the watch) and pushers (if it's a chronograph) are precision components.
Crown Checks
- Resistance: Turning the crown should have consistent, smooth resistance. Counterfeits often feel loose or gritty.
- Click: Pulling out the crown to adjust the time should have a distinct, satisfying "click." A counterfeit click is often weak or absent.
- Threading: If the crown has threads (screwing down), they should be perfectly smooth. Rough or misaligned threads suggest a counterfeit.
- Logo engraving: The Steinhart logo or branding on the crown should be crisp and centred. Counterfeits often have off-centre or blurry engravings.
The Crystal and Gaskets
The crystal (the front glass) and gaskets (seals) are essential for water resistance.
Crystal Inspection
- Clarity: A genuine sapphire crystal should be perfectly clear with no cloudiness, scratches, or inclusions visible from outside.
- Coating: Many luxury watches have anti-reflective coating on the crystal. This coating should be even and uniform. Counterfeits often have blotchy or inconsistent coating.
- AR ghosting: Look at reflections in the crystal. A genuine AR coating shows green and magenta ghosting; counterfeit coatings often show blue or other colours.
Gasket Quality
Gaskets keep the watch water-resistant. You can't see them without opening the case, but you can infer their quality:
- Water resistance: A genuine watch will be water-resistant to its specification (e.g., 300m for dive watches). Counterfeits rarely hold water resistance.
- Fog test: Ask a dealer to perform a condensation test. A sealed, genuine watch won't fog up inside. A counterfeit often will.
The Bracelet or Strap
Even the bracelet or strap tells a story.
Metal Bracelet
- Links: Genuine links are solid, precisely machined, and connect seamlessly. Counterfeits often have hollow or loose links.
- Clasp: The clasp mechanism should be smooth, solid, and secure. Counterfeits have cheap, loose clasps that feel flimsy.
- Adjustment: Genuine bracelets come with precisely fitting links. The fit should be snug and rattle-free.
Leather or Rubber Strap
- Material quality: Genuine Steinhart straps use quality leather or rubber. The material should be smooth, evenly dyed, and properly finished.
- Stitching: Stitching should be even, tight, and precisely aligned. Loose or uneven stitching is a counterfeit indicator.
- Hardware: Screws and spring bars should be solid metal and precisely machined. Counterfeits often use cheap, unfinished hardware.
Purchase Source: Your First Defence
The best way to avoid counterfeits is to buy from authorized dealers.
At Pura, we're an authorized Steinhart distributor. Every Steinhart watch we sell comes with:
- Original packaging and documentation
- Serial number verification
- Full warranty from Steinhart
- Proof of authenticity
Buying from unauthorized sellers—online marketplaces, street vendors, or questionable dealers—is where counterfeit risk skyrockets.
Pre-Owned Watches: Extra Caution
Buying a pre-owned luxury watch increases counterfeit risk. Always:
- Ask for the original box and papers
- Request proof of previous authenticity verification
- Have it inspected by an authorized dealer before purchase
- Check for service records (genuine watches are serviced by authorized dealers)
If buying online, use reputable platforms with buyer protection and authentication guarantees.
When in Doubt, Get It Checked
If you suspect a watch is counterfeit—or if you've inherited or found a watch you want to verify—bring it in. Pura offers authentication services. We can check the movement, verify the serial number, inspect the finishing, and give you a definitive answer.
The cost of verification (typically R200–R500) is minimal compared to the cost of owning a fake.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can a fake pass all these checks?
A: In theory, a counterfeit that passes all these tests would be so high-quality and expensive to manufacture that it wouldn't be profitable to sell as a fake. The best counterfeits fail multiple checks. If a watch passes them all, it's almost certainly genuine.
Q: What if I buy a counterfeit by mistake?
A: If you buy from an authorized dealer, you won't. If you buy elsewhere and suspect it's fake, report it to Steinhart and the seller. You may be entitled to a refund or replacement. If you bought from a marketplace like eBay or Takealot, report it and open a dispute.
Q: Is there a Steinhart authentication database I can check?
A: Not publicly. However, authorized dealers (including Pura) can verify a serial number against official records. This is one reason to buy from authorized dealers—they have access to verification resources you don't.
Q: What's the easiest way to spot a counterfeit?
A: Listen to the beat rate. Hold the watch to your ear. A genuine automatic Steinhart has a rapid, steady tick. A counterfeit either has a noticeably slower tick or an irregular beat. This single check catches most fakes.
Q: Can Steinhart watches be serviced if they're not authentic?
A: No. Steinhart and authorized dealers (including Pura) will refuse to service a counterfeit watch. This is a safety issue and a brand protection measure.
Buying with Confidence
Luxury watches are investments. They should be treated that way. If you're spending R15,000 or more on a Steinhart, the watch deserves to be genuine.
Know what to look for. Buy from authorized dealers. Ask questions. If something feels off, it probably is.
At Pura, we're here to help. Whether you're buying new, evaluating a pre-owned piece, or verifying a watch you already own, we've got the expertise to help you make the right call.