A watch is never just a tool to tell time. For collectors, it's a wearable piece of mechanical art, a store of value, a story, and sometimes an investment.
If you're thinking about building a watch collection—starting from zero or adding to what you have—understanding the fundamentals of collecting will help you make smart choices, avoid costly mistakes, and find genuine satisfaction in your collection.
Why Collect Watches?
Before diving into specifics, understand why you're collecting.
Watches as Passion
Many collectors are fascinated by mechanical movements, design, history, and the craftsmanship that goes into watches. The watch itself is the reward—wearing it, understanding it, appreciating it.
Watches as Investment
Some collectors buy watches expecting them to appreciate. Certain models, brands, and vintage pieces do appreciate over time, potentially delivering returns of 5–15% annually. But this is secondary to enjoying the watch.
Watches as Profession
Some people buy to resell. This is a small fraction of the collector base and requires expertise.
The First Watch: Choosing Your Entry Point
Your first collectible watch sets the tone.
Budget Considerations
Entry-level: R2,000–R5,000
Affordable, accessible, and low-risk. Brands like Steinhart offer excellent value. You can experiment without major financial exposure.
Mid-range: R5,000–R15,000
More refined movements, premium materials, and better case finishing. Solid foundation for a collection. Steinhart's higher-end models fit here.
Premium: R15,000–R50,000
Swiss movements, precious metals, recognized brands. Higher investment and higher stakes, but entry to serious collecting.
Ultra-premium: R50,000+
Rare watches, precious metals, fine watchmaking. Serious collectors and investors.
What to Look For in Your First Watch
1. Honest movement: Choose a watch with a reliable, proven movement. Steinhart uses ETA and Sellita movements—both reputable and common in good watches.
2. Timeless design: Avoid trendy designs. Your first watch should be versatile, wearable, and interesting 10 years from now. Classic dive watches, field watches, and dress watches age well.
3. Brand reputation: Choose a brand with heritage and reliability. You want a watch you can service and parts for in 20 years.
4. Wearability: A watch you wear is more valuable (emotionally and financially) than one you never use. Choose something you actually want to put on.
5. Documentation: If you're considering future resale, buy from authorized dealers with papers, boxes, and documentation.
Building a Collection: What to Add
A strong collection isn't random. It's deliberate, curated, and reflects a collecting philosophy.
The Rotating Collection Approach
Most working collectors have 3–5 watches they rotate through:
- A daily driver: Tough, reliable, not precious (a Steinhart dive watch, for example)
- An dressy piece: For formal occasions (a dress watch or vintage piece)
- A vintage or special piece: The sentimental or investment piece
- A secondary sports watch: (Optional) For different activities or seasons
This approach balances wearability, variety, and investment.
The Specialist Approach
Some collectors focus on a specific genre:
- Dive watches: Building a collection of 50m–300m rated watches from different eras
- Vintage (1950s–1980s): Collecting watches from a specific period
- A single brand: Collecting multiple models from one maker (e.g., all Steinhart, or all Rolex sports models)
- Field watches or military pieces: A specific functional category
Specialist collections develop depth, knowledge, and often appreciate better because the collector becomes an expert.
The Themed Approach
Collections organized by theme:
- My father's watches: Watches inherited from family
- Travel watches: One watch from/for each country visited
- Milestone watches: One watch for each major life event
Themed collections are deeply personal and often become family heirlooms.
Investment Potential: Which Watches Appreciate?
Not all watches appreciate. Some depreciate immediately upon purchase.
Watches That Typically Appreciate
Vintage Rolex: 1960s–1980s Rolex sports watches (Submariner, GMT-Master, Daytona) have historically appreciated 10–20% annually. Prices have softened slightly recently, but certain models remain strong.
Vintage Seiko: 1970s–1980s Seiko divers have appreciated as collectors recognize their quality and rarity. Certain models (like the original Mariner or PloProf) appreciate significantly.
Luxury sports watches: Current-production Rolex sports watches, Omega Seamaster/Speedmaster, and other iconic models appreciate due to waiting lists and limited supply.
Precious metal watches: Gold and platinum watches hold value via material content, even if the movement depreciates.
Limited editions: Truly limited watches (50 units or fewer) can appreciate if well-executed and by reputable makers.
Watches That Depreciate
Mass-market fashion watches: Cheap watches sold at shopping centres depreciate to near-zero value.
Overpriced new watches: A watch bought at a massive markup may depreciate immediately to fair market value.
Trendy designs: Today's bold colourway is tomorrow's dated relic. Avoid chasing trends.
Unknown brands: Unless you're an expert, collecting unknown brands is risky. Stick to established makers.
Where to Buy: Building a Reliable Supply Chain
Authorized Dealers
Buy your first watches from authorized dealers (like Pura for Steinhart).
Advantages:
- Full warranty
- Original box and papers
- Guarantee of authenticity
- Access to service
Disadvantage:
- Full retail price (no discounts)
Best for: New watches, certainty, peace of mind.
Reputable Watch Retailers
Established, non-authorized retailers with strong reputations.
Advantages:
- Competitive pricing
- Wide selection
- Knowledgeable staff
- Return policies
Disadvantage:
- Warranty may be limited
Best for: New watches if you've done research.
Pre-Owned / Vintage Dealers
Specialized retailers focusing on vintage and pre-owned watches.
Advantages:
- Access to older models
- Expert knowledge
- Potential for appreciation
- Character and history
Disadvantage:
- Authenticity risk if buying from unknown sources
- Condition variability
- No manufacturer warranty
Best for: Vintage and experienced collectors.
Auction Houses
Reputable auction houses (Christie's, Sotheby's) sell watches with authentication and guarantees.
Advantages:
- Authentication guarantees
- Often provenance included
- Prestige pieces available
Disadvantage:
- Buyer's premium (15–25% added to hammer price)
- High starting bids
Best for: Significant pieces, investment pieces.
Avoid
- Unknown online sellers without buyer protection
- Private sales without verification
- "Too good to be true" deals
Maintenance and Care
Collectible watches require care to maintain and potentially increase value.
Regular Servicing
Mechanical watches should be serviced every 5–7 years.
Service includes:
- Movement cleaning and oiling
- Gasket/seal replacement (restores water resistance)
- Testing and adjustment
- Replacement of worn parts
Cost: R1,500–R4,000 depending on complexity.
Why it matters: A poorly maintained watch loses value and will fail. Serviced watches hold value and function reliably.
Storage
- Store in a dry place
- Avoid temperature extremes
- Use watch boxes (wooden watch boxes are traditional; avoid leather that touches the case)
- Wind mechanical watches occasionally if not worn
Wearing
- Wear watches regularly (a watch worn is less likely to fail)
- Avoid extreme conditions unless the watch is rated for them
- Clean gently after sweat or saltwater exposure
- Check seals and gaskets regularly
Documentation and Provenance
For investment-grade watches, documentation is crucial.
Keep:
- Original box and papers
- Service records
- Receipts of purchase
- Certificates of authenticity (if purchased with any)
- Photos of the watch (especially unique features or wear patterns)
Why it matters:
- Original papers can increase value 10–20%
- Service records prove the watch has been maintained
- Provenance tells the story of the watch
The Economics of Watch Collecting
The Cost of Entry
A basic collection of 3–4 watches:
- First watch (entry): R3,000–R8,000
- Second watch (different style): R5,000–R12,000
- Third watch (vintage or special): R8,000–R20,000
- Service costs (every 5–7 years): R1,500–R4,000 per watch
- Storage and care: R500–R1,000 annually
Total investment for a respectable collection: R16,000–R40,000+ over a few years.
Return on Investment
If you buy smart, collect patiently, and maintain properly:
- A Steinhart purchased at R5,000 will hold 70–80% of value in 5 years
- A vintage Omega purchased at R10,000 may appreciate to R12,000–R15,000 in 5 years
- A Rolex sports watch at R20,000 may appreciate to R25,000+ in 5 years
Key: Don't chase appreciation. Buy watches you love. Appreciation is a bonus, not the goal.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How many watches is a "collection"?
A: Three or more. Though technically, one watch is a collection to that person. But meaningful collections are usually 3+ pieces.
Q: Should I only buy vintage?
A: No. New watches offer warranty, functionality, and reliability. Vintage offers history and character. Both have a place.
Q: Is a Steinhart watch a good collectible?
A: Yes. Steinhart makes honest, well-built watches at fair prices. They're not investment-grade (like Rolex), but they hold value and have a loyal following.
Q: Can I make money collecting watches?
A: Yes, but it's secondary to enjoying the watches. Buy smart, maintain properly, and sell when the market is right. Most collectors break even or slightly profit.
Q: Should I buy limited editions?
A: Only if you love the watch. Limited doesn't always mean appreciating. Buy for love, not scarcity.
Q: How do I know if a vintage watch is authentic?
A: Bring it to an expert. At Pura, we can authenticate watches and advise on vintage pieces.
Q: Is it better to buy a new watch or a vintage one?
A: Depends on your goals. New = warranty, reliability, current technology. Vintage = history, character, potential appreciation. Start with new; branch into vintage as you gain knowledge.
Q: What's the best watch for investment?
A: Rolex sports watches (Submariner, GMT-Master, Daytona) have the best track record. But they're expensive entry points. Start elsewhere; invest later.
Q: Can I wear my investment watches?
A: Yes—and you should. A watched is made to be worn. A watch kept in a vault isn't appreciated fully.
Q: Should I buy watches as a replacement for stocks or bonds?
A: No. Watches are alternative investments with lower liquidity and higher subjectivity. Diversify across asset classes. Watches are a small, special part of a broader portfolio.
Building Your Collection
Start with one honest, well-made watch. Wear it. Enjoy it. Service it. Learn from it.
Add a second watch that's different—another category, another era, another brand. Learn the differences. Understand what appeals to you.
Then, deliberately build toward a collection that reflects your interests, values, and budget.
At Pura, we specialize in Steinhart watches—excellent entry-level collectibles. We can also source other brands, advise on vintage pieces, and service your entire collection.
Your first watch is the start of a journey. Make it count.