Inside every automatic watch, around 100 to 200 components move continuously, the balance wheel oscillating several times every second, every hour of every day. It's a feat of engineering that asks for remarkably little in return: just a little attention every few years.
The short answer: most automatic watches with Swiss movements should be serviced every five to seven years, or sooner if you notice poor accuracy, a reduced power reserve or moisture under the crystal. A full service involves dismantling, cleaning, lubricating, regulating and pressure-testing the watch. Good daily habits, including correct storage on a watch winder, help your watch run accurately between services.
Why Mechanical Watches Need Servicing
A mechanical movement relies on specialised oils at dozens of friction points, from the pivots of the gear train to the pallet stones of the escapement. Over time, those oils:
- Thicken and dry out, increasing friction.
- Migrate away from where they're needed.
- Collect microscopic metal particles from normal wear.
The result is gradual: first a little lost accuracy, then a shorter power reserve, and eventually accelerated wear on components that are far more expensive to replace than oil.
Gaskets age too. Rubber seals that keep water and dust out lose elasticity, which is why a once water-resistant watch may no longer be.
Recommended Service Intervals
Intervals vary by movement, manufacturer and how you wear your watch. These are sensible guidelines:
|
Watch type / use |
Suggested interval |
|---|---|
|
Swiss three-hand automatic (e.g. ETA 2824-2, Sellita SW200-1) |
Every 5–7 years |
|
Automatic chronograph (e.g. Valjoux 7750) |
Every 4–6 years |
|
Dive watch used regularly in water |
Full service every 5–7 years; pressure test annually |
|
Vintage watch (pre-1990) |
Every 3–5 years |
|
Watch stored unworn for long periods |
Inspect before regular wear; service per the age of the oils |
Always check your manufacturer's guidance first.
Seven Signs Your Watch Needs Attention Now
Don't wait for the calendar if you notice any of these:
- Accuracy drifts noticeably. A standard-grade Swiss automatic typically runs within roughly 10–15 seconds per day. If yours is losing or gaining a minute or more daily, something's wrong.
- The power reserve shortens. A fully wound watch that stops well short of its rated reserve (often around 38–41 hours on popular Swiss calibres) needs a look.
- Condensation under the crystal. Moisture inside is urgent. Take it to a watchmaker straight away to prevent rust.
- A grinding or rattling rotor. Some rotor noise is normal; harsh grinding is not.
- The crown feels gritty or loose, or won't screw down properly.
- The date changes at the wrong time, or complications misbehave.
- It was dropped or exposed to a strong magnet. Shock and magnetism can affect timekeeping immediately.
What Happens During a Full Service?
A proper service is a complete restoration of the movement's health, not a quick battery-style swap.
- Assessment: the watchmaker checks accuracy, amplitude and beat error on a timegrapher.
- Disassembly: the movement is removed from the case and taken apart, component by component.
- Cleaning: parts are cleaned in specialised solutions, usually in an ultrasonic machine.
- Inspection and replacement: worn parts, such as the mainspring, are replaced where needed.
- Lubrication: different oils and greases are applied at each specific friction point.
- Reassembly and regulation: the movement is rebuilt and adjusted for accuracy across positions.
- Case work: gaskets are replaced, and the case and bracelet can be cleaned or refinished on request.
- Testing: water resistance is pressure-tested and the watch is observed over several days.
Expect a full service to take a few weeks, depending on parts availability.
Why Proven Swiss Calibres Make Ownership Easier
One of the quiet advantages of owning a Steinhart is what's inside. Swiss workhorse calibres, such as the ETA 2824-2 and Sellita SW200-1, are among the most widely produced mechanical movements in the world. That means:
- Parts are readily available.
- Experienced watchmakers know them intimately.
- Servicing is typically more affordable than for proprietary in-house calibres.
It's value-focused luxury in its truest sense: classic design, honest engineering and running costs that make sense for decades of ownership.
Daily Care Between Services
- Wind it right. If your watch has stopped, wind it 30–40 turns by hand before wearing, rather than relying on wrist movement alone.
- Never set the date between roughly 9pm and 3am, when the date-change mechanism is engaged. Move the hands past 6 o'clock first.
- Keep it away from magnets: speakers, laptop lids, magnetic bag clasps and induction hobs.
- Screw the crown down every time on a dive watch.
- Rinse after salt water and avoid hot showers or saunas.
- Store it properly. A quality watch winder, such as WOLF1834, keeps oils evenly distributed and saves wear on the crown and date mechanism from constant resetting.
- Clean the bracelet regularly with a soft brush and lukewarm water to stop grime building up.
Frequently Asked Questions
How often should an automatic watch be serviced? Most automatic watches with Swiss movements should be serviced every five to seven years. Automatic chronographs and vintage watches may benefit from more frequent servicing, every four to six years and three to five years respectively.
What happens if I never service my automatic watch? Over time, its lubricants dry out and thicken, increasing friction and wear. Accuracy and power reserve will decline, and worn components may eventually need costly replacement.
Does a watch winder reduce the need for servicing? A watch winder doesn't replace servicing, but it keeps the movement running, distributes oils evenly and reduces wear on the crown and date mechanism from frequent resetting.
How accurate should a Swiss automatic watch be? A standard-grade Swiss automatic movement typically keeps time within roughly 10 to 15 seconds per day. COSC-certified chronometers are tested to between –4 and +6 seconds per day.
Conclusion
A well-serviced automatic watch can outlive its first owner. Service it every five to seven years, act quickly on warning signs, and look after it day to day. Your watch will repay you with decades of reliable, characterful timekeeping.
Explore Steinhart's Swiss-movement watches and WOLF1834 winders, both available on pre-order, at pura.co.za. Built to last, and easy to look after.